Well the Weather Outside is Frightful, But the Fire is So Delightful

I'm experiencing the first true bouts of winter here in the Czech Republic. It got cold in September and I had to bring out my winter coat much earlier than I'd expected. Then it warmed up, and I put it aside. Now my trusty black peacoat is starting to show signs of wear -- One button hell off and another two are threatening to come off as well. Still, every morning I bundle up in a t-shirt, sweater, sweatshirt and jacket. And that's when I'm still in the house.

The house is a 16th century apartment off the blacksmith working quarters. It was renovated several years ago which is how I'm able to connect my new-fangled technology to electricity and the internet. The problem, however, is that no one could agree exactly WHICH century the building should be restored to as it's had multiple additions over the years. As a result, some rooms have are on one heating system and other rooms are on a separate one. The old-fashioned bathroom is on it's own system and the modern bathroom means going outside and ducking into an attached building. The best way to get some heat is to light the wood stove in the front room. And Sarah, in case you read this, I am not chopping my own wood.

There are actually at least three different places in the house to make a fire. The first is for the front room which connects to what is supposedly an oven. Doesn't look like any oven I've ever seen but I will see it in use this coming Saturday. The second is a small little nook in the ridiculously small kitchen which at one point served the purpose of boiling water. You can still see how it works. Go into the kitchen and light the fire. Exit the kitchen and turn 180 degrees and you discover a small nook at about waist height. Look inside and you'll see there's a hole just the right size for a bucket of water. Ta-da! Boiling water without having to use a massive open fire. The last place to make a fire is over my head. Literally. There's a meat smoker above where the open fire in the kitchen used to be.

In this weather, you bless the warming powers of the traditionally offered tea, coffee and of course, slivovice. Then about an hour later, you curse these same items because it forces you to use the restroom and expose some skin to the elements.

This part of the trip has been somewhat easier as I have actually made contact with my adviser. Some days I don't know exactly what I'm doing, but it's been a whirlwind nonetheless. I've been learning about the fishing traditions in the Trebon area, visiting a traditional ceramics artist in her studio, and today I interviewed a woman who has been recognized by the Czech Minister of Culture as a "Keeper of Traditional Crafts" for her work with embroidery and fish scales. Sound strange? It is at first, but it's also incredibly interesting. I managed to record the interview which means I'll probably spend any spare time in the next few days transcribing. Typing is always that much easier when you can't actually feel your fingers.

I'm collecting a small horde of goodies on my travels. I hope I can make it back to Prague without looking like a bag lady. Correction, I will in fact be a bag lady -- I'd just like all of my bags to make it back with me!