Sunday, September 28, 2008
I'd Rather Dance With You Than Talk With You
Much, much to come on my week away from Prague in the eastern portion of Bohemia but for now I have to get back to getting my life in order for the coming week. Just as a taste of what is to come, however, I wanted to leave you with a video. You'll have to suffice with photos for now though.
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Let's Talk about Sex, Baby
Once upon a time, way back in the days when I was at my actual school, I was sitting in a class unable to take my eyes off of the couple two rows in front of me. In a small class, in which various students were presenting, this couple could not keep their hands off each other. The question was clear, but the answer was not. Were we watching pre-sex or post-sex?
Fast forward six months. Change classrooms. Change cities. Same question.
Although Czechs can be a very private people, the young people seem to be very open about personal displays of affection. Very open. It's not uncommon to see on the in the park, on the street, or for me, on the Metro. All of the American students have noticed it -- one girl even wrote her first assignment on cultural differences about it.
How To Display Affection in Public
The cultural question that arises is about personal space. In elementary school, they teach us about "personal bubbles" which only you inhabit and others can only be invited in. That's how public school did it anyway. How big your bubble is depends on your own personal sense of safety.
American couples allow for displays of affection to enter their personal space in public -- hand holding, playful pushing, quick kisses. In many of these instances, the initiation seems to come from the woman or she cajoles her partner into initiating public displays of affection. [Movie theaters are public spaces and yet seem to be exempt from some of the rules of "decency".]
However, in the Czech Republic, these are some of the forms of affection that have been documented in public spaces.
Fast forward six months. Change classrooms. Change cities. Same question.
Although Czechs can be a very private people, the young people seem to be very open about personal displays of affection. Very open. It's not uncommon to see on the in the park, on the street, or for me, on the Metro. All of the American students have noticed it -- one girl even wrote her first assignment on cultural differences about it.
How To Display Affection in Public
The cultural question that arises is about personal space. In elementary school, they teach us about "personal bubbles" which only you inhabit and others can only be invited in. That's how public school did it anyway. How big your bubble is depends on your own personal sense of safety.
American couples allow for displays of affection to enter their personal space in public -- hand holding, playful pushing, quick kisses. In many of these instances, the initiation seems to come from the woman or she cajoles her partner into initiating public displays of affection. [Movie theaters are public spaces and yet seem to be exempt from some of the rules of "decency".]
However, in the Czech Republic, these are some of the forms of affection that have been documented in public spaces.
- A young woman straddling her boyfriend in fashionable low rise jeans. Commando style.
- A young man lovingly grazing his girlfriends face only to stop to pop a zit on her face.
- A man in his mid twenties sitting with his arm possesively slung over the shoulders of the woman with his other hand on the crotch seam of the woman.
- Lots, lots, and lots of tongue. I hadn't realized how popular tongue piercing was here.
More often than not, it's the way in which the two people stand in relation to one another. There's a lot of nuzzling, which sometimes leads to making out and other times, not really. Even people who look like they are in high school are spreading the love. They stand facing one another holding onto the straps of each others backpacks, using them as a way to pull closer into each other.
So this post was a bit lighthearted in part because I'm heading back to the Sudetenland this weekend for a week research excursion. We went to Usti nad Labem last weekend for a trip to a multicultural festival. At that point I hadn't realized it was in part of the Sudetenland but I've come to learn more about the conditions that still currently exist in these regions and can see how it's almost a posterchild for some of the problems that remain.
I will have more details about my trip soon. So far, all I know is that I'm practically in Germany and that I may or may not need a sleeping bag. To sleep in a barn...
Saturday, September 13, 2008
These Streets, They Got a History
When people ask me how Prague is, the first word out of my mouth is usually "beautiful". There's a very good reason that directors like to shoot films in Prague -- you can find almost any style of architecture in parts of the city. Now, I don't claim to be any kind of architecture historian. I know what I like and I know what I'm learning.
People in the States associate Prague with older styles, like classic gothic churches and cathedrals. Or Baroque. Or Renaissance. One of the things I've learned since I've been here is that Prague prides itself on being on the cutting edge of architectural design. Proud of the buildings it has and proud to be a forerunner in more modern architecture.
Currently, there are some debates about a new National Library that was supposed to go up and work has stalled early on in the process. The city held an international contest for a design for a new National Library to replace the current one, the Klementinum. During the 2002 floods, the library suffered massive amounts of damage to their archives. The library does smell slightly moldy but I expect that part of that is simply age. The buildings are also not easily adaptable to the new technology -- lights hang strangely from the ceiling, they use a paper cataloging system, they have no room for computers.
The proposal that won was a post-modernist structure referred to jokingly as "the blob". The city declared it the winner, but has since come up with reasons not to build it that attempt to skirt around the issue of its appearance. In model, it looks green with accents of purple, but my host mother explained that the material is supposed to reflect the light of the time of day. When I asked her about it, she gave me the response that seems to echo in the sentiments of other Czechs: Although it's not perhaps the most attractive building, it is the building that won the contest. And although it's different from the other structures around it, it's an opportunity for Prague to maintain its architectural reputation because it would be the first postmodern building in Prague.
How To Recognize Architecture Types in Prague
Gothic -- this is most commonly found in Hradcanska (I still can't figure out how to find some of the accents on my computer for Czech so I apologize for the butchered names of places) or Stare Mesto. This is St Vitus Cathedral in Prague Castle -- the castle will be its own entry one of these days.
Renaissance-- I've fallen in love with a style of Renaissance architectural design called scraffito. It's pretty much one of the only ways that I can distinguish Renaissance buildings and I've been keeping track of the ones I find in Prague. This is Schwarzenberg Castle
Cubist -- Prague is one of the few places in the world that you will see Cubist architecture. Seeing as the theory behind Cubism was centered around 2D images, the concept of Cubist architecture seems, well, contradictory. This is the House of the Black Madonna is Stare Mesto.
More Recent:
Communist era apartment complex:
Frank Gehry's "Dancing House":
This has been my classroom for the last two weeks. We attend classes in museums, in random coffeeshops tucked in narrow cobblestoned streets and have one of the most amazing views of the city skyline from the balcony of our penthouse schoolroom.
People in the States associate Prague with older styles, like classic gothic churches and cathedrals. Or Baroque. Or Renaissance. One of the things I've learned since I've been here is that Prague prides itself on being on the cutting edge of architectural design. Proud of the buildings it has and proud to be a forerunner in more modern architecture.
Currently, there are some debates about a new National Library that was supposed to go up and work has stalled early on in the process. The city held an international contest for a design for a new National Library to replace the current one, the Klementinum. During the 2002 floods, the library suffered massive amounts of damage to their archives. The library does smell slightly moldy but I expect that part of that is simply age. The buildings are also not easily adaptable to the new technology -- lights hang strangely from the ceiling, they use a paper cataloging system, they have no room for computers.
The proposal that won was a post-modernist structure referred to jokingly as "the blob". The city declared it the winner, but has since come up with reasons not to build it that attempt to skirt around the issue of its appearance. In model, it looks green with accents of purple, but my host mother explained that the material is supposed to reflect the light of the time of day. When I asked her about it, she gave me the response that seems to echo in the sentiments of other Czechs: Although it's not perhaps the most attractive building, it is the building that won the contest. And although it's different from the other structures around it, it's an opportunity for Prague to maintain its architectural reputation because it would be the first postmodern building in Prague.
How To Recognize Architecture Types in Prague
Gothic -- this is most commonly found in Hradcanska (I still can't figure out how to find some of the accents on my computer for Czech so I apologize for the butchered names of places) or Stare Mesto. This is St Vitus Cathedral in Prague Castle -- the castle will be its own entry one of these days.
Renaissance-- I've fallen in love with a style of Renaissance architectural design called scraffito. It's pretty much one of the only ways that I can distinguish Renaissance buildings and I've been keeping track of the ones I find in Prague. This is Schwarzenberg Castle
Cubist -- Prague is one of the few places in the world that you will see Cubist architecture. Seeing as the theory behind Cubism was centered around 2D images, the concept of Cubist architecture seems, well, contradictory. This is the House of the Black Madonna is Stare Mesto.
More Recent:
Communist era apartment complex:
Frank Gehry's "Dancing House":
This has been my classroom for the last two weeks. We attend classes in museums, in random coffeeshops tucked in narrow cobblestoned streets and have one of the most amazing views of the city skyline from the balcony of our penthouse schoolroom.
Thursday, September 11, 2008
It's Kind of Catchy, Kind of a Virus, Cutting your Hair like Billy Ray Cyrus
While I am sure there will be more posts about fashion in Prague, there is only one trend so pervasive and horrifying that it can begin the reports.
Ladies and Gentleman, I give you... the mullet.
I understand that the Czech Republic missed out on some of the finer points of the 80s, you know, with Communism and all, but really? The mullet? At first I thought that it was one or two poor souls who had perhaps tried to trim their own hair. It's much more difficult to reach in the back for a short trim. However, it began to feel as though I saw one or two mullets on each excursion.
Although I do not have photos yet, one of the other students on my program has begun taking photographs of mullets around the city. But what is a mullet, and who would wear such a horrendous style?
How to Recognize a Mullet
The mullet is most commonly identified by the phrase "Business in front, Party in back." What kind of parties these people are attending I don't know. The style is short in the front as well as on the sides but has length in the back. The length on the sides is part of what distinguishes the mullet from simply "long hair". Usually the length of the hair reaches past the collar and onto the upper back.
Who wears a mullet? Typically, a man in his late 50's who completes the ensemble with his socks and sandal combination. However, this trend appears to be popular with the younger generations as well. In this case, the mullet has been combined with dreads, creating a pseudo "rat-tail." Although I'm not sure what kind of rat this would be, seeing as there are usually 3 or 4 baby dreads. I also sadly must report that I saw the more standard mullet on a small child -- People are forcing mullets on small children. We must find them, and stop them.
To be honest, I find it amusing that so many people have mullets. I rarely seem them at home nowadays, and if I do it's in something making fun of rednecks or hillbillies. Billy Ray Cyrus is still borderline although much, much improved from the days of Achy Breaky Heart. He's got better things to do now like worrying about whether his 15 year old daughter is posing in the nude for magazines.
I'm trying hard not to be judgmental. Some people claim that I like to talk alot -- whether or not this is, um, true, I also do spend a good deal of my time listening and watching. I've stopped listening to my iPod on transportation because it's such a wonderful place to people watch. It's things like noticing that Czechs line up for the trams parallel to the cars rather than perpendicularly. It's assessing whether or not you should give up your seat for the old man on the train. Today I had two people address me in Czech while riding public transportation because of how I acted. Perhaps I am starting to get a hang of things?
Ladies and Gentleman, I give you... the mullet.
I understand that the Czech Republic missed out on some of the finer points of the 80s, you know, with Communism and all, but really? The mullet? At first I thought that it was one or two poor souls who had perhaps tried to trim their own hair. It's much more difficult to reach in the back for a short trim. However, it began to feel as though I saw one or two mullets on each excursion.
Although I do not have photos yet, one of the other students on my program has begun taking photographs of mullets around the city. But what is a mullet, and who would wear such a horrendous style?
How to Recognize a Mullet
The mullet is most commonly identified by the phrase "Business in front, Party in back." What kind of parties these people are attending I don't know. The style is short in the front as well as on the sides but has length in the back. The length on the sides is part of what distinguishes the mullet from simply "long hair". Usually the length of the hair reaches past the collar and onto the upper back.
Who wears a mullet? Typically, a man in his late 50's who completes the ensemble with his socks and sandal combination. However, this trend appears to be popular with the younger generations as well. In this case, the mullet has been combined with dreads, creating a pseudo "rat-tail." Although I'm not sure what kind of rat this would be, seeing as there are usually 3 or 4 baby dreads. I also sadly must report that I saw the more standard mullet on a small child -- People are forcing mullets on small children. We must find them, and stop them.
To be honest, I find it amusing that so many people have mullets. I rarely seem them at home nowadays, and if I do it's in something making fun of rednecks or hillbillies. Billy Ray Cyrus is still borderline although much, much improved from the days of Achy Breaky Heart. He's got better things to do now like worrying about whether his 15 year old daughter is posing in the nude for magazines.
I'm trying hard not to be judgmental. Some people claim that I like to talk alot -- whether or not this is, um, true, I also do spend a good deal of my time listening and watching. I've stopped listening to my iPod on transportation because it's such a wonderful place to people watch. It's things like noticing that Czechs line up for the trams parallel to the cars rather than perpendicularly. It's assessing whether or not you should give up your seat for the old man on the train. Today I had two people address me in Czech while riding public transportation because of how I acted. Perhaps I am starting to get a hang of things?
Saturday, September 6, 2008
All I Want is a Room Somewhere
Ok, so maybe that title was a bit more appropriate for the waiting period when I was living out suitcase in the hotel without any idea of where I would be living for the next three months or so.
I moved in this afternoon with my family in Praha 5 -- Stodulky
to be more exact. It's near this great park where we took the dog for a walk this afternoon. Man, I miss my dog, although it's great to have something in common that is so central to our lives.
Although I'm not positive, I believe that my housing complex was built during the Communist period -- although it's definitely been renovated on the inside since then.You can tell in Prague how old the buildings are because of the signs that label each building.
How to Read Czech Street Signs
The red plaque on the left identifies the both the neighborhood as well as the district. While it's a little hard to read in this photo, the neighborhood is "Mala Strana" [which is where most of the films in Prague are shot] and the district is Praha 1.
The number on it which tells you in what order the buildings in the area were constructed. So the lower the number, the older the building. This particular building probably dated back to the mid 19th century if not earlier. My apartment building is number 2128 -- the highest I've seen yet.
The blue plaque identifies the number on the street.
The key over the door is also a mark that true Czech historians can understand. Many houses are identifiable by their symbol. Some have religious imagery, while others refer back to more pagan symbols.
I've got my first assignment to turn in, so I will write more about my adventures storming the castle (with pictures!) when I get a chance in the next few days. My computer has a fickle relationship with the wireless networks here in Prague so we shall see.
I moved in this afternoon with my family in Praha 5 -- Stodulky
to be more exact. It's near this great park where we took the dog for a walk this afternoon. Man, I miss my dog, although it's great to have something in common that is so central to our lives.
Although I'm not positive, I believe that my housing complex was built during the Communist period -- although it's definitely been renovated on the inside since then.You can tell in Prague how old the buildings are because of the signs that label each building.
How to Read Czech Street Signs
The red plaque on the left identifies the both the neighborhood as well as the district. While it's a little hard to read in this photo, the neighborhood is "Mala Strana" [which is where most of the films in Prague are shot] and the district is Praha 1.
The number on it which tells you in what order the buildings in the area were constructed. So the lower the number, the older the building. This particular building probably dated back to the mid 19th century if not earlier. My apartment building is number 2128 -- the highest I've seen yet.
The blue plaque identifies the number on the street.
The key over the door is also a mark that true Czech historians can understand. Many houses are identifiable by their symbol. Some have religious imagery, while others refer back to more pagan symbols.
I've got my first assignment to turn in, so I will write more about my adventures storming the castle (with pictures!) when I get a chance in the next few days. My computer has a fickle relationship with the wireless networks here in Prague so we shall see.
Monday, September 1, 2008
I'm so tired, I haven't slept a wink
I'm here. I'm sitting in the hotel picking up some shady wireless connection because no one in the group understood the man at the front desk's directions to connect to the wireless.
It's been a rough start. One of the guys in the program didn't get his visa in time for the group flight out so he's waiting at home in the USA for it to arrive. Another girl's luggage got left in Heathrow. All of us are dead tired and forcing ourselves to stay awake so we can adjust to the time zone difference. That's mostly required sustenance and my first exposure to Czech food.
The academic coordinator ordered us a cheese plate and some bread at a pub-- instead, we got several plates of fried cheese. Imagine mozzarella sticks. Now make the pieces of cheese larger. Now substitute in several different types of cheeses, including smoked varieties. We walked cafe/coffee place called Medusa and tried some actual food.
None of us know any of the words for food. Whatsoever. But there actually were some English translations on the menu. I've been surprised (and somewhat pleased on the first day) at the number of signs in English and the number of people speaking English. The table next to us at the cafe was actually an English lesson. I almost wanted to jump in and help out! But trying to read the menu required much more concentration.
Here's some of what I noticed--
* cocoa and hot chocolate? Not the same thing. Hot chocolate it essentially liquid chocolate. Kind of like the "chantico" drink Starbucks tried to sell and failed at miserably since it was too rich.
* their choices of fruits -- it's not that they have entirely different food than we do, particularly fruits and berries, but they combine the flavors in different ways. Like plum jams on the Czech version of crepes
* all the food came out at different times. It came as soon as it was ready, but it meant that we couldn't wait to all eat together
* the server basically drops the food on the table and disappears. They don't rush you out, but they also don't really check to see if you want to order anything else
Now I'm off to bed like a little old lady, all fat and happy
It's been a rough start. One of the guys in the program didn't get his visa in time for the group flight out so he's waiting at home in the USA for it to arrive. Another girl's luggage got left in Heathrow. All of us are dead tired and forcing ourselves to stay awake so we can adjust to the time zone difference. That's mostly required sustenance and my first exposure to Czech food.
The academic coordinator ordered us a cheese plate and some bread at a pub-- instead, we got several plates of fried cheese. Imagine mozzarella sticks. Now make the pieces of cheese larger. Now substitute in several different types of cheeses, including smoked varieties. We walked cafe/coffee place called Medusa and tried some actual food.
None of us know any of the words for food. Whatsoever. But there actually were some English translations on the menu. I've been surprised (and somewhat pleased on the first day) at the number of signs in English and the number of people speaking English. The table next to us at the cafe was actually an English lesson. I almost wanted to jump in and help out! But trying to read the menu required much more concentration.
Here's some of what I noticed--
* cocoa and hot chocolate? Not the same thing. Hot chocolate it essentially liquid chocolate. Kind of like the "chantico" drink Starbucks tried to sell and failed at miserably since it was too rich.
* their choices of fruits -- it's not that they have entirely different food than we do, particularly fruits and berries, but they combine the flavors in different ways. Like plum jams on the Czech version of crepes
* all the food came out at different times. It came as soon as it was ready, but it meant that we couldn't wait to all eat together
* the server basically drops the food on the table and disappears. They don't rush you out, but they also don't really check to see if you want to order anything else
Now I'm off to bed like a little old lady, all fat and happy
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